The Bycraft Diary Trip to Canada 1882 — Winter 2002
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The Great Lakes… 84% of the continent’s fresh water… a different story in every drop.
By John Bycraft, edited by Ruth Bycraft Zavitz
18-year-old John Bycraft, 1884
John Bycraft was born April 4, 1866, at Hollis Street, Leeds, Yorkshire, England, to James and Mary Ann (Hemingway) Bycraft. They moved to Barnsley where his two sisters, Clara Maria and Mary Ann (Polly), were born.
In the spring of 1882, James and John decided to go to Canada to look at the prospects for farming or building as their construction business in England was at low ebb. John had graduated from grammar school with honours when he was fifteen, excelling in geometry. A year later, he was being trained as a stone mason to work with his father, a building contractor and bricklayer.
John kept a diary of his travels, which began with this poem:
DIARY OF AN ENGLISH BOY
Who would not stay at home
His father’s trade he didn’t like
But loved afar to roam.
And should this book stray
And fall in anyone’s way
If a favour would bestow
Send it to the address below
Curiosity you may lead
A few pages to read
My mind you would ease
Send it soon if you please
Mr. J. Bycraft Builder Barnsley, Yorkshire, England
When I was sixteen, father proposed going to America and I readily agreed to accompany him. Our ticket bought and everything got ready, we left Barnsley the 17th of May 1882 and got to Liverpool about eleven o’clock. After we had made arrangements for starting next day we looked around Liverpool. Saw two ships starting for the American shores and heard the blue jacket Orphans play on brass instruments.
18th: Saw St. George’s Hall in front of which are Prince Albert and Queen Victoria’s monuments. Went on board after taking leave of Uncle Edward at 3 P.M. Had a good tea of beef which we enjoyed. Left Liverpool at 9 P.M. and glad I was to know we were off. We got a cabin at 12 P.M. after being almost tired out waiting to get a bed. There being four bunks we had for mates a Scotchman & a man from Manchester. They were very pleasant and agreeable.
19th: … we were in the middle of the Irish sea. The coast of Scotland appeared and soon after that of Ireland. We called at Belfast and took more passengers on. The last land we saw was two rocks on the north of Ireland. Soon after they disappeared I began to feel sick.
20th: Nothing but sickness to put down today.
Sunday 21st: Considerably better. No service on board of any kind.
22nd: Slept until breakfast. Saw sailors furl the square sail it looks to be dangerous work. A miscellaneous concert in the evening.
24th: Played Scoty a game at checkers & beat him. Music and dancing on deck in the evening.
25th: We were much disappointed by a fog bank which a good many thought was land. Saw a steamship, also two whales, some ducks and porpoises & some pieces of ice.
26th: The ship stopped on account of a thick fog. The water seemed like glass. Numerous pieces of ice floating about. Three icebergs in sight but joined together under water. The fog horn going at intervals & the ship stopping occasionally. The steering gear broke & we had to stop again. A very large berg passed so close it seemed as if we could jump on it. Saw two sea sparrows. We stopped again at two o’clock. Concert in the evening.
27th: Set off again about 7 o’clock. Several large icebergs & numerous small ones floating around. When the fog lifted we sighted Newfoundland. Passed a sailing & a steamship laying telegraph cables. Cape Race sighted about one o’clock. Icebergs in sight all day. I counted forty at one time from one place on deck. Cape Breton Island came in sight with other small ones. The snow had not melted off them yet which made them look like icebergs in the distance. Entertainment in the steerage at night.
28th: We were much surprised by the appearance of ice from the St. Lawrence river which caused us some delay. Saw a seal on a piece of ice. About four in the afternoon the ice knocked a hole in the fore of the ship in front of the bulkhead. The vessel was allowed to drift with the ice that night. The cargo was moved from the forehold to as far back as it could be put. The passengers & crew worked until midnight when the ship was thought to be out of danger.
29th: Got up about 6 o’clock & helped to get more cargo aft. The sailors put some canvass over the hole and some planks to keep off the ice. The wind began to get up & we started again. It was a miserable day on account of the fog & rain.
30th: Canadian land was welcomed by all which was seen early. Some of the hills were snow capped. About ten o’clock both sides of the river could be seen. Took pilot on about 6 o’clock. The pumps were going most of the day. We passed Father Point about ten P.M.
31st: 13 days out. The houses on both sides could be seen. Saw the monument which marks the spot where General Wolfe was killed. Landed about half-past ten. We got our baggage checked and got dinner. The depot is right on the dock at Point Levi where we were landed. We started on our railway journey about five.
Thursday June 1st, 1882: We passed through the Victoria tunnel over the St. Lawrence about one o’clock. Got a free gratis breakfast about half-past three at Montreal. Saw Port Henry as we passed. We stopped at Kingston on the St. Lawrence. We moved to a better carriage where we slept better.
2nd: I was asleep when we passed Toronto. Had breakfast at half-past seven. The management of the trains is different here to in England. The conductor goes through the train & tells the people where to get off. We got to Pt. Edward about eleven. Took a walk, had a good wash & a good dinner which refreshed us. We could see the shores of the States on the other side of the river. Saw the train we had come on taken across the St. Clair. We got some provisions for our lake journey. Got on board the Quebec which is a miserable boat. We left about midnight — made ourselves comfortable in the stateroom.
3rd: Very foggy … had our breakfast with our boxes for chairs & table had dinner of bread & cheese. I then had the first lay-down since the 30th. When I awoke the boat lay moored at Goderich where we took more passengers & cargo. Our Scotchman among them.
4th: Wet & foggy in the morning. After dinner it turned fine, had a walk on the upper deck. When we entered the River St Mary the scenery was beautiful & the sunset exquisite, showing many colours both on the water & in the sky. … stay overnight at a cordwood landing where there was a log house but we did not see the occupants.
5th: When I got up we were about to touch at a port on the Canadian side where we got some milk for breakfast. From here we went across to Sault St. Mary. Here they had to get more coal so we had time for a walk. We bought some butter which we had to throw away. Went on board and got dinner in the cabin which was the best meal since we came on board.
6th: Blackened our shoes for the first time since we left home. Passed Silver Isle about 2 o’clock. We called at Prince Arthur’s Landing where Scoty got off & a lot of cargo was taken out. We passed Pie Island about 9 P.M. also a steamer. Saw some large fires on land.
7th: We landed at Duluth at half-past two. Were very glad to leave the boat as we had slept on the boards with only a blanket under us. Got tea before we left by rail at six. The road from Duluth to Fond Dulac follows the river which is very winding. One curve forms a horse shoe on the edge of deep ravines through beautiful scenery. We only went about four miles an hour the road being very dangerous.
8th: We got to Glyndon at nine A.M. where we had to stay for an hour. The country from Glyndon to St. Vincent is very flat & few settlers. We got to St. Vincent about five P.M. where we had to have a brass put on one of the axles. We got to Dominion City about sundown. A brickyard was commenced close to the railway. Got to Winnipeg about 10 P.M., got lodgings & were soon in bed being eight days since we were undressed.
9th: Went to P. O. where we found two letters for us. After dinner we got our boxes to boardinghouse & had tea. Saw an [First Nations] woman with her baby on her back.
10th: Got a job for Monday.
11th: Went to Lion Chapel & to Wesley Hall.
12th: Went to work planting potatoes the spades were very dull making it hard work. Were very tired when we got home.
13th: Walked about nearly all day. (Looking for work).
14th: Went over bridge to the town of St. Boniface where we got lost & had to enquire the way back. On our way home we met a man who promised us a job for the next day.
15th: Went long way … to St. Boniface by the railway bridge. Got to work at last along with another man. We did not unload three cars but were very tired. Had to go to the river for water to drink.
16th: Finished the job & went to our lodgings to get ready to leave. Winnipeg is a flat town with few trees & they only along the river. The water is bad. Winter long, board high, & bad drainage. Main St. like other Canadian cities is taken up with stores & agents & lawyers’ offices. Water men bring the Red River water around & sell it for 25 cents per barrel. We left for Minneapolis at 7.30 P.M.
17th: After … Glyndon the country looked better … more wooded & some lakes. Got boarding with a very nice man at Minneapolis.
18th: Went to church it was more a lecture than a sermon. The choir consisted of four singers and an organist.
19th: Took a walk around the city. Like other American cities it is laid out in square blocks. Most of the sidewalks are shaded with trees which make it very pleasant. The Mississippi flows through it. The banks are connected by three bridges, two roads, and one railway. There is a splendid waterfall (artificial) after the river has been made to run several large mills. The weekly paper is published on Sunday. Not finding any work to suit we decided to move on.
20th: The baggage master caused us to miss the first train which made us lose two hours. Got to St. Paul’s about 10.30 & stayed about three hours. It is very hilly. The buildings are mostly of stone. The next place was Eau Claire. The prettiest part of the city is on the opposite side to the railway. We never saw or heard of any brickwork going on. Got a bath & a good supper. Left about 1 A.M.
21st: Got to Milwaukee … It seemed to be a very unhealthy place owing to so much stagnant water. We left for Chicago where we came across a Mr. Wincliffe who was very kind to us. We stayed about a month & I was working most of the time. We took advantage of the 4th of July holiday to visit Lincoln Park … very large & beautifully laid out. The menagerie is as natural as possible. It contains black & brown bears, a wild cat, prairie dogs, raccoons, sea lions & different kinds of birds. Union Park is very small, mostly wooded & much frequented in the evenings. There are a few animals, also a lake with boats & water birds on it. The main streets have a double street car track and are very wide in the business part of the city. There are 36 swing bridges. The river is very low & has a very disagreeable smell. … Later I went to live with a farmer, Hiram Kipp.
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