Georgian Bay Cruise: A Century Later — Summer 1996
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The Great Lakes… 84% of the continent’s fresh water… a different story in every drop.
Author: Donald W. Kaatz
The spring 1996 edition completed the report of an 1898 voyage of three young men into Georgian Bay two years short of a century ago. The parallels are interesting in the following 1995 voyage into North Channel of Georgian Bay by a present-day boating family. The family planned the trip as a 75th birthday gift to Herbert Kaatz who had made the same trip a half century earlier. He was thrilled with the invitation.
CREW
- DWK Don Kaatz, skipper
- CWK or CW HWK
- Christopher Kaatz, mate
- Herb Kaatz, honored guest and grandfather of Christopher
- TW Tom Ward, guest
Date: Sunday, July 23,1995
Destination: Catawba Island Club to provision Inheritance
6:OO p.m. Arrived at Catawba Island Club, Lake Erie, Ohio (CIC) in preparation for the North Channel cruise. Trip anticipated to cover 18 days, 15 ports. First eight days will include Tom Ward, long-time friend, retired from Rubbermaid. In Little Current, Tom will leave cruise and return home to Sarasota, Florida; HWK will join the cruise.
Important trip for DWK. Time seems to be running out for me to spend time with my son who is growing up rapidly (and quite nicely).
Date: Monday, July 24,1995
Destination: Port Huron, Michigan
Port Departed: CIC – 7:30 a.m.
Port Arrived: Port Huron – 11:OO p.m.
This trip started out in a fashion not anticipated, nor desired. After four hours running, we entered Lake St. Clair with Grosse Point Yacht Club (GPYC) abeam. With fuel running low in saddle tanks, we switched to main tank. Starboard engine failed immediately – water in the gas. Limped to GPYC at five knots. Arrived at noon and secured vessel just before a serious thunderstorm hit with very heavy rains and high winds.
GPYC was very accommodating. Provided slip (no charge) and called Dave’s Marine Service. Seven hours and $100 later, fuel filters were replaced. Still water in fuel line of starboard engine. Refueled saddle tanks and ran to nearby marina (first Jefferson Beach, then Ken’s) to fill main tank with 19 bottles (12 ounces each) of dry gas in hopes this would absorb balance of the water.
Departed Ken’s at 7:30 p.m. and ran three hours to River Street Marina, Port Huron. Good facility, clean showers. Restless sleep worrying about engines. The expectation is that only a small amount of water is in the main tank given only the starboard engine failed while port ran fine. The fuel pick-up for the starboard line must be lower in the tank.
Dinner – two pizzas at midnight. Both CW and Tom remain very understanding and patient.
Date: Tuesday, July 25,1995
Destination: East Tawas
Port Departed: Port Huron – 11:30 a.m.
Port Arrived: East Tawas – 6:OO p.m.
By 9:00 a.m., we were at Pro Marine Service working with Art Cook to determine if we needed to pump-out the entire main tank. Located at the mouth of the Black River in Port Huron.
Apparently we got lucky. Emptied water from starboard fuel line and engine worked fine.
Filled all tanks and successfully ran main tank for 5 hours (11:15- 4:15). Two hours later arrived at East Tawas State Docks. Very nice facility but limited shower stalls. This marina one of several state-run investments by Michigan. During dinner, and just after securing boat, a serious storm arrived. Lots of rain and at least 50 mph winds. Dinner on-board adequate. CW concerned about an ingrown toenail which is now infected. Search for doctors unsuccessful but Dairy Queen discovered.
CW certainly maturing. Special trip for me.
Date: Wednesday, July 26,1995
Destination: Presque Isle Harbor
Port Departed: East Tawas – 10:15 a.m.
Port Arrived:
Presque Isle Harbor – 3:30 p.m.
Prior to leaving, provisioned boat and again sought medical help for CW’s big toe. No luck. Time to run. Engines running fine. Run time about 5 hours 15 minutes. Presque Isle (pronounced “ill”) Harbor Marina also owned by Michigan DNR (just like E. Tawas). Lovely facility and surrounding environment wooded and attractive.
While refueling, dock boy dropped gas vent cap in the lake (another $17). Settled into our slip along with mostly sailboats from the Mackinac Race. Very pleasant evening and setting. Toured the lighthouse which was built in 1843. Small museum with interesting artifacts. After an evening cocktail and showers, enjoyed dinner and a lovely sunset.
It should be noted this marina has not been written up in the GLCC given it’s only 3 years old. Clean, good service and has adequate berths for large vessels. Only one 30 amp outlet per boat but we negotiated a slip with 50 amps. Also has fuel.
Tomorrow we run for Mackinac Island.
Middle of the night – fantastic “star-show” from horizon to horizon. Clear night sky, cool temperature.
Date: Thursday, July 27,1995
Destination: Mackinac Island
Port Departed: Presque Isle Harbor Marina – 9:00 a.m. Port Arrived: Mackinac City Municipal Marina – 2:OO p.m.
Lovely sunrise. Lake Huron dead calm. Perfect cruising day. Encountered numerous commercial fishing nets in the Hammond Bay to Ninemile Point area. Crew asleep or reading.
Arrived at Mackinac Island as scheduled at 1:00 p.m. No slips available so we returned to Mackinac City Municipal Marina. Refueled and secured a slip. Packed, locked boat and took the ferry to the island.
Checked into the Grand Hotel and were lucky with room assignment overlooking the Straits of Mackinac. Great view, classic old hotel, currently celebrating its 108th birthday. Rich in history, gorgeous grounds and gardens. Tomorrow we will attack the island.
Excellent dinner followed by a walk around the property. Dinner requires a coat and tie. It’s amazing how well Christopher fits into this environment. Looks great, carries himself well.
We spent an hour on the porch in rocking chairs, overlooking the Straits of Mackinac. What a setting! Back in the room, CW has the cards dealt for “Gin 13.” Current score DWK 4, CWK 2. No air conditioning in room but the fan in the window works fine.
Date: Friday, July 28,1995
Destination:
No travel today. Spent the day on Mackinac Island.
Overcast morning. Wonderful breakfast. CW was able to fit into Tom’s shorts and my shirt enabling him to join us for food. Clouds turned to rain so back to the room for more cards; DWK 5, CWK 3. Rain continued so CW and I worked out in the rather complete weight room. Next, the whirlpool followed by swimming. Surprisingly large pool including a basketball hoop. Numerous games of “pig and horse” after which the weather began to clear.
Walked the town which consists primarily of fudge, ice cream and T-shirt shops. Toured the marina. Probably best we couldn’t get a slip for the boat given the amount of surge. Toured (climbed) Fort Mackinac which provided numerous Kodak moments. One more stroll through town to purchase gifts.
The gin score is now DWK 8, CWK 3.
Tom put on a career clinic with CW during dinner. Long talks, soul searching, mind stretching . . . and CW listened. Tom is a fine person. What a small world! We saw John and Sue Bell (retired Lake Ridge Academy teacher, my Alma Mater) in the lobby of the Grand. Then another round of “Gin 13”; DWK 10, CWK 3.
Date: Saturday, July 29,1995
Destination: Pilot Cove, NE corner of Drummond Island
Port Departed: Mackinac City Municipal Harbor – 11:15 a.m.
Port Arrived: Pilot Cove, Drummond Island – 3:OO p.m.
Another lovely morning with check-out from the Grand Hotel. Provisioned boat and headed for Pilot Cove on the NE corner of Drummond Island. Pleasant cruise.
Pilot Cove absolutely beautiful!! Very narrow entrance (about .2 boat widths), shallow water, but perfectly protected from all directions. Had at least 6 feet of water. Must follow GLCC instructions for entry. Anchored for the evening. Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous.
Set one anchor in the cove and a second around a tree on shore. Very secure. Cocktails, the dinghy hits the water and a quick dip to wash and check the anchor. Cooked filets in the dinghy.
While preparing dinner, CW took a swim off the bow pulpit. Dinner complete, clean up. I boarded the dinghy for a little fishing but ended up mostly singing and taking photos of the sunset.
Returned to boat for a movie. Perfect sleeping weather . . . no noise, cool and calm.
Awoke at 4:OO a.m. and stayed up for as long as I could take the cool evening. The stars were unbelievable. Perfectly clear, stars from horizon to horizon.
P.S. CW a great partner on the boat. Digs right in and works hard. Definitely Pilot Cove should be visited if in the area.
Date: Sunday, July 30,1995
Destination: Bayfield Sound
Port Departed: Pilot Cove, Drummond Island – 9:00 a.m. Port Arrived: Northernaire Marina, Bayfield – 2:OO p.m. Woke up at 6:OO a.m. for a little fishing. Caught nothing but saw a beautiful, light-colored whitetail deer (doe). Ankle deep walking the shoreline eating grass. Enjoyed her for about half an hour.
Woke everybody up. Breakfast. Secured the boat and on our way. Really hate to leave this beautiful spot.
Ran for about one hour to Meldrum Bay to refuel and clear Canadian Customs (#1931). Met a boater from Toledo who reported just yesterday waves 8-10 feet on the North Channel. We got lucky and missed it all, thanks to Pilot Cove. After fueling, pump-out and water, continued cruise to Bayfield Sound. CW continued his pattern of sleeping all morning.
Northernaire Marine a pleasant stop. Secured a slip and launched the dinghy. CW took me to a nearby spot to fish for an hour. No luck. Returned to the boat, picked up Tom and headed to the beach for a bath.
Christopher becoming very responsive to Tom’s coaching. Very interesting weather pattern. Calm in the morning with winds picking up and gusting in the evening.
Discovered Lyn and John Norton, my accountant, had just left Northernaire the morning we arrived.
Date: Monday, July 31,1995
Port Departed: Northernaire Marina – 6:30 p.m.
Destination: Little Current
Port Arrived: Little Current – 1O:OO p.m.
Final day with Tom. Awoke early letting CW sleep while running to Little Current. Clapperton Channel very attractive. Narrow passage with rocks on both sides.
Upon arrival at Little Current, refueled. Tom experienced his final lesson in docking the boat.
Stern in with current and wind. Only two missed approaches with the third picture perfect. CW went to work as usual doing an outstanding job of cleaning and securing the boat. While Tom packed for his return home, we cleaned entire boat.
Headed to town for lunch, then to Manitoulin East Airport to meet HWK at 1:00 p.m. There is no question it was great to have Tom on board. As always, he knows how to pitch in with the team. Most importantly, Tom had an excellent dialog with CW which advanced his maturity and left CW with respect and appreciation for Tom.
Ed Skuza finally delivered my father at 3:OO p.m., swapping Tom for HWK who arrived in classic style with six bags, banjo, telescope, scuba gear, briefcase, clothing bags. Returned to boat for more clean up, laundry, and packing-in HWK.
A short walk to town for dinner at Anchor Inn. Afterwards to grocery store. HWK, age 75, tired from a previous short night, parked himself in a shopping cart on the Main Street sidewalk and fell asleep! Provided great entertainment for hundreds of people. Returned to boat to re-ice, stow provisions and finish laundry.
Significant electrical storm and heavy rains during the night.
CW slept on the floor to attempt escape from Grandpa’s snoring.
Date: Tuesday, August 1,1995
Destination: Baie Fine
Port Departed: Little Current – 11:OO a.m.
Port Arrived: Okeechobee Lodge, Baie Fine – 1:00 p.m.
Rain showers off and on during the morning. While waiting out the rain, CW acclimating Grandpa to “Gin 13.”
Now Grandpa teaching CW cribbage.
Can’t wait for the weather, departing at 11:OO a.m. for Baie Fine. Short run . . . arrived 1:OO p.m. and secured a slip at Okeechobee Lodge. Very nice facility with plenty of power. Rented a boat for the 5- mile run down Baie Fine to the Pool. Absolutely lovely anchorage area. Pulled the boat to shore and started the climb to Topaz (Crater Lake) Lake. On a boarded walkway, Grandpa took a spill and hurt his knee. Continued walking and then CW and I made the climb to the lake while Grandpa slowed his pace. Again . . . very beautiful country. Grandpa continued climbing making it almost to the top. After we all rested, returned to the rental boat for a slow return of fishing to the lodge. Caught numerous smallmouth bass (small is the operative word). CW losing patience with Grandpa and I fishing, so we returned at full speed to the lodge.
CW can’t handle the snoring so he moved from the floor of the cabin to the floor of the pilot house.
Beautiful stars. Pleasantly cool evening.
Date: Wednesday, August 2,1995
Destination: Killarney
Port Departed: Baie Fine – 10:30 a.m.
Port Arrived: Killarney – 12:30 p.m
After leaving Baie Fine, changed course to Creak Island only 4.1 miles south. Slowed down to pass between Richards Rock (off Creak Island) and Boat Rock. Bottom started coming up so I pulled throttles to idle. Shortly thereafter, we hit bottom with the props. Apparently no hull damage, a clear vibration at 2000 RPM. Need to change props. The spares we carry are hopefully the right ones. Limped into Killarney Marine and Rigging and spoke with the owner (Matty). Should be able to lift us out at 3:OO for repairs. Busy place. When I asked how much it would cost to change the props and check the shafts, he asked if I had an arm and a leg. Let’s hope we get lucky.
DWK stayed with the boat while CW and Grandpa took the dinghy to get reservations at Killarney Mountain Lodge.
I was terribly upset with myself for hitting the bottom. First time. The grounding occurred at 10:50 a.m., 2 August 1995, and is marked on Canadian Chart #2245. As my dad always says, there are only two types of boaters: those who hit rocks, and those who will. I’ve arrived.
Yes . . . we did get lucky. Only port prop damaged slightly. Replaced both and shafts appeared okay. Amazing what $359 Canadian can purchase.
Moored at Killarney Mountain Lodge.
Date: Thursday, August 3,1995
Port Departed Killarney – 11:30 a.m.
Destination: Beaverstone Bay
Port Arrived: Anchorage at Noble’s Island – Beaverstone Bay – 3:OO p.m.
Late wake-up, 8:OO a.m. Grandpa and I walked to old Jackman’s store for provisions. Nothing like it used to be.
Returned to the boat to refuel, take on water, pump-out, ice. Storms continue to move in and out. Departed for Collins Inlet and Beaver Stone Bay. Collins Inlet absolutely beautiful even though we cruised through a heavy mist.
Beaverstone Bay gorgeous as always. Found Nobles Island and cabin still intact. Inhabited but we haven’t explored yet. DWK went snorkeling and checked the anchor. Excellent anchor age. CW in the dink while Grandpa made a few casts. While diving, observed a 4+ lb. bass.
The Honored guest, Herb Kaatz The Mate, Christopher Kaatz
Date: Friday, August 4,1995
Destination: Bustard’s Islands
Port Departed: Nobles Island, Beaverstone Bay – 1:00 p.m. Port Arrived: Bustard’s Island – 3:OO p.m.
DWK up by 5:45 a.m. and fished for two hours catching nothing, not even a bite. Returned to boat to avoid rain.
Finally underway. Hate to leave this lovely anchorage at Nobles Island. Tricky departure but well marked for leaving Beaverstone Bay to Georgian Bay.
Pleasant run to the Bustard’s Islands. The Bustard’s are sensational. Rocks everywhere. Snaked back to a tiny inlet. DWK dove to the anchor to make sure it was secure while CW set an aft hook to the shore. The pool we were in was no wider than 200‘ in diameter but all depths 20’ around us to the shoreline.
After swimming, Grandpa and CW headed out in the dinghy for fishing.
Date: Saturday, August 5,1995
Destination: Tobermory, Little Tub
Port Departed: Bustard’s Island – 8:OO a.m.
Port Arrived: Tobermory, Little Tub – 12:30 p.m.
Up at 6:OO a.m. Secured boat and departed for Tobermory. CW finally awoke but Grandpa went down for a nap.
Arrived at Little Tub in a thunderstorm. We were very lucky to secure a dock with the only pair of 30-amp outlets in the harbor. Still a lovely port but significantly developed since Grandpa last visited in the 1950s. As soon as the boat was secure, the rain ended. The Guest, Tom Ward The Skipper, Don Kaatz
Date: Sunday, August 6,1995
Destination: Spent the day diving in Tobermory
Tobermory may not be the place for CW and I to scuba dive. Up at 7:OO a.m., sorted the dive gear and left with Diver Den to explore the Arabia.
Seas were rough and upon approaching the mooring buoys near Echo Island, the engine failed. After several attempts, the boat (not ours) was secured. It was difficult to suit up given the rough conditions. The Arabia was built in 1853. It was a schooner-shaped barge built in Kingston, Ontario, 1853. Its length was 131.6 feet. The Arabia foundered in October 1884 sinking to 120′. Neat ship. In 120′ of water, we knew the dive would be short and challenging. Boy, was it! Descent was okay (except at 50′ temperature changed from 65″ to 38″) and upon settling to the Arabia, we discovered a plaque erected by divers from Wright State University. After a short tour, we decided to ascend. We couldn’t find the ascent line so were forced to free ascend with our air running out. At about 60′, CW was clearly approaching no air. Panic set in and he began ascending much too quickly. I was able to stop him at 41′ and pull him back to 50′. Restarted ascent at which point his air was depleted. CW was forced to use my air. Significant panic, with CW ripping my mask and snorkel off in an effort to grab my secondary regulator. With CW’s rapid breathing, I could tell my tank would soon be empty. At 30′, I began an emergency ascent (for myself) to provide CW with adequate air.
We hit the surface too soon, without a safety stop. The boat was 100 yards from us, a difficult swim. Given my snorkel was knocked off, I was forced to free breathe at the surface in 3-4′ waves.
We finally made it to the boat and immediately got CW on oxygen. Terrible headache but with the straight oxygen, he improved quickly. CW was extremely fatigued as was I.
Back at the dock we returned our gear and CW showed signs of hunger (good sign) but complained of some discomfort in his left arm and joints. CW very tired; he slept for 2 hours.
While Grandpa and I did the wash, CW arose and began washing the decks. Reported a lingering burning sensation throughout his body but no headache or sickness. Still weak but improving. In all the ex citement, I didn’t report the nitrogen build-up in my body; extreme
headache, ear canals collapsing, and pain in left hand joints, experiencing some numbness in the face and head as well as tired. Good night’s sleep will help. But . . . I’m improving. My only real concern is CW. I think we are winning.
Throughout all this we had planned to take Grandpa on a dive to the Tugs along with a divemaster. When they found out he had not completed his open water dives, they declined. The Tugs would have been a great dive.
Date: Monday, August 7,1995
Destination: Goderich
Port Departed: Tobermory, Little Tub – 10:30 a.m.
Port Arrived: Goderich – 530 p.m.
Arose at 6:OO a.m. and secured the boat. Toured Big Tub on the way out and then departed via Cape Hurd Channel. SE seas about 2- 3’. After about 2 hours, Lake Huron began to lay down. About an hour north of Goderich, we shut down for swimming.
Entered the bilge to find I left the starboard oil cap off spraying oil throughout the bilge. Following clean-up, swimming.
Arrived Goderich at 5:30 p.m., mooring at Maitland Valley Marine. Harbormaster a 76-year-old woman named Olive. Very friendly. Drove us to the Duke for dinner. Goderich is a picturesque, quaint town. Still relies on salt and grain shipping. Lovely sunset.
Date: Tuesday, August 8,1995
Destination: Grosse Pointe Yacht Club
Port Departed: Goderich – 9:00 a.m.
Ports Arrived: Port Huron – 12:30 p.m./GPYC – 4:OO p.m.
Awoke at 5:30 and took a 2-hour walk to the beach and main harbor of Goderich. Enjoyed watching lake freighter (Agawa Canyon) enter the harbor. Walked the entire town. Goderich is rich in history and appears to be working hard to capture it.
Returned to boat finding CW and Grandpa ready to run. Crossed Lake Huron in 3 hours. Seas built to 4’ out of the SE for the first hour.
Arrived in Port Huron at 12:30 p.m. to refuel and clear customs. Departed at 1:15 arriving at GPYC at 4:OO.
Weather gray all day with showers off and on.
Date: Wednesday, August 9,1995
Destination: CIC – Time to return home!
Port Departed: GPYC – 10:30 a.m.
Ports Arrived: Portage Entry Marine – Port Clinton – 1:30 p.m./ CIC – 3:OO p.m.
It’s certainly good to be home but the trip was great. My father was sincere when he remarked how much he appreciated this gift. Most importantly, it was a privilege for me to be with my son. I’m indeed the lucky person.
End of journey. An important memory in our lives.
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